Flooring and Coilovers | Audi TT Kit Car | PedalBox Episode 58

on this episode of pedalbox i've got wood and i'm using that wood to build a floor for the car [Music] yes this time we're adding a floor onto the car and we're going to cut all of these pieces down so they're the right shape and they fit where we want them to go cover them in black stains so they're a little bit more waterproof and hopefully they should survive until we get the proper floor in now we're not running with the wood permanently we're just using this as a template and we'll cut all these bits out so we can order exactly what we want in either an aluminium or a carbon fiber honeycomb eventually some point in the future but for now this stained up so it doesn't rot will be perfectly fine we can work out where we need to mount the holes and weld things onto the chassis so it'll fit nicely and be flat once we've got that done we can flip the chassis over in the future and weld everything in solid but for now let's get cutting subscribe to the channel check out the website pedalbox.show shop patreon.com pedalbox show [Music] we've got the pieces cut and i've also fixed this one where i cut it a bit short out of the sheet so that can go on the front and now we can see all of the floor we have so fast there'll be a splitter to go out the front but we don't need to worry about that for the time being i'm going to coat this in some waterproof paint this is just some black sort of shed protection stuff um which should make sure it doesn't rot more than anything i know it's under a cover but it still gets really damp and i don't particularly want all of this to just fall out the bottom of the car if this has to stay on for a little while until we get the proper sheeting we want to put under so i'll put a coat on this we'll let it dry and then we'll start looking at how it fits up on the bottom of the car and make some brackets to hold it in place well it took a lot longer than i expected it to but we've got two coats on the top one coat on the bottom and all of the edges are sealed up as well it actually dried really quickly on the top and bottom on the flat faces but the edges took ages to dry so i think that's about all we're going to get done today but tomorrow we'll put this back under the car and we'll see where we can mount off and how i'm going to do it i might use rivnuts i might use little standoffs and then riv not onto those i'm not 100 sure so i'll see what's going to work out best then now everything's dry this is the first part we're going to attach on the car and this goes underneath the radiator support at the front now i don't want to attach this all the way onto the main piece of the chassis i want it just to attach onto the front section so it can bolt on and off as one so i'm going to place a mount in this corner and a mount in this corner right next to the bracket but not actually welded onto the main chassis and probably two more across the front the first two mounts i've made are probably the hardest ones to put on they go right into these corners on the very bottom edge here and i've made them out of some 30 mil bar with a 5 mil hole drilled in we're just going to use m5 bolts to hold this on it should be ample for what we need and we can put a rivnut into here really easily so that'll need a seven mil hole but we need the five mil hole in first to then drill this in the right location then we can pull this out a little bit further put the rivnut in and then bolt it on well it's bolted in it sits really nicely it doesn't flex i'm really pleased with how that's gone in so we'll move on to the next one that goes underneath the steering rack and that's just gonna have another two brackets on the front but i'll put three across the back so i've got one that's got a central hole and two offsets here that'll go in because this panel is just a little bit wider and then we'll start working onto the next panels as we go back and hopefully get all of the floor in [Music] today [Music] well that's all of our floor panels finally fitted we've drilled all the brackets we've got the river nuts in and it all works nicely i do need to order some more because a couple of these got a little bit too much flex for what i really want but that's an easy fix once i get some more rivnuts at the moment i don't really want to stand on it and test it fully until i've got those in so we'll see when they arrive and we'll get more support in and then it will all be done and ready to start working around so it's time to turn our attention once again to our rear suspension now we're not doing anything too major to the structure of this this time but i think we've spent about eight episodes at different times across the last 50 something trying to get this right and this time we're dealing with the shock itself when we got the suspension for the front of the car we got a set of rear catrim springs and shocks that came with them so we got a full set of four but we stuck with the ones we originally bought which were these from a mark ii golf now i bought these so i could fit the fronts onto my mark ii golf and ultimately discovered i already had some cheap coil overs on that car so there's no point swapping them over so i now have a full set of these spare if i take these off but given these are roughly the same length i think i've worked out a way that i can re-engineer the top mount to take this shock and get rid of this one now the problem we've got with the golf shocks is the lower spring is completely bottomed out already so it's not doing any work and although we haven't got it set up that's just taking the weight of the engine and that's really bad we don't know what rate these springs are but we knew we were going to replace something if not the entire shock at some point so we know roughly what these springs are rated for and we can test them out and if not there are higher rated ones of these available because these are just ibac springs so as long as we can get a 13 inch spring for it we can put whatever weight we want in later on which is really good news so i think i've worked out a way that i can fit this onto the underside of this top mount by flipping it over so i'm going to pull the wheel off pull the shock out and just try and cobble something together to see if this will even remotely fit in an easy way because i really don't want to have to cut anything apart out of this structure because we finally got it looking nice so you can see the difference between the shocks in overall length it's about four inches top mount to top mount but we lose at least two to two and a half inches here when this spring completely compresses down on the car so that's not too much of a problem now in order to get back the other two inches i'm going to add in a little tube on the top here as a temporary measure to just lower the point from above the top mount to below the top mount and have it inside the strut i'm also going to run the top mount we had before upside down as a temporary test to give me about another half inch push down so i'll fit this all on the car put the wheel back on and see where it settles out and see exactly how much we need to increase the height of this at the moment there's a pretty huge gap here it's got to be about five inches or so between the top of my temporary stub and the underside of this top mount but the axle sitting all the way down at the very bottom of its travel even further than it would have done on the other shock so it's not quite as bad as it looks [Music] well all things considered that's not too bad we've lost about an inch of space between the tyre and the inside edge of this support which you can see with my spacer that i had last time still fits in around this side but at the top it's dropped down some so we should be able to get that inch back just by extending that little spacer tube by another inch up so i'm going to cut a couple of those put them in both sides and start working out what other bits we need to attach on to really secure them in place and make them work so this is my adapter that's going to fit onto the top of the coilover and drop into the very top underneath the top mount now the other side's actually already fitted and this one has been on the car as well which is why some of the paint has already chipped off all i've done is cut off the outside edges of the tube and welded on two flat plates and on one side i've welded on a nut that narrows down the inside so it matches the same size as the bushing on the top of the shock this bolts through runs through the top here and then screws in like that now one of the things is this aluminium cap doesn't rest onto this tube i deliberately didn't want that because i didn't want this to just dig in and run round particularly if this turns because this can actually twist round if you get any kind of twisting on it you're just going to wear a big groove into the top cap so this fits nicely on here and the weight is taken by the bolt as it would in a normal setup not by the aluminium top cap so this sits in exactly as planned bolts into the very bottom same hanger support and then this just fits into the top now to mount this onto the top i've got a piece of half inch box right in the center with a nut welded onto the top and that's got a hole drilled all the way through for an m8 nut to go down and this clamps it onto the bottom of the top mount [Music] once about all i can get done for now i still haven't got the riv nuts to finish off bolting in the floor so i'll get that done off camera hopefully before the next episode but i'm really pleased we finally got the better suspension on the rear they're still compressing quite a bit but these original progressive springs that are on here vary from about 90 pounds to about 180 pounds an inch so it's still very very soft especially considering we've got a whole engine in the back so really they're probably going to need some higher rate springs for them i know caterham sells them for about 215 pounds an inch which aren't too expensive so we'll probably replace those in later on once we can test it and get it on the road but for now the whole system works thanks very much for watching if you'd like to subscribe to the channel that would be really great check out all of the things we've done before and the cars in the rest of the fleet thanks very much if you've been watching for right from the beginning and if you'd like to support us check out the merch on shop.pedalbox.show and if you'd like to support the channel directly check out patreon.com pedalbox show thanks very much for watching we'll see you next time you

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