Part 2 – My Tesla is completely dead! Is it now bricked? Cause revealed and it’s cost!

Exactly how excited am I to be in a p90d? Well… [Music]   Welcome back to part two of my video.   You've always heard the saying "when 
it rains it pours", right? [Music]   So my Tesla Model 3 has been 
dead for two weeks now, in fact,   it's still in the shop right now. So when 
the car first died, I didn't panic because   I do have a second car that I can drive 
in the meantime while it's in repair, but   um had a problem there too. This is my project car 
here, a Miata. I got the battery charged up and   come out here to take a look. So I go to start 
up my Miata here and let's see what happens.

Do you hear that clicking? The   car is dead as a doornail. The battery is good, 
the alternator is good. I've got a bad starter.   So my electric car is dead and my gas-powered 
car is dead! Luckily I have a Tesla and a Mazda,   and my wife also has a Tesla and a Mazda. So my 
amazing wife loaned me her Mazda for that first   week that the car was dead. I had the car just 
in the garage while I tried to troubleshoot it   and also I had to schedule Tesla Service. It 
wasn't like I could drive it in that day uh   or have it towed that day. So uh I had to wait 
a few days for Tesla Service to be available,   then I towed the car while I was driving the Mazda 
to work every day, and boy, let me tell you.

I do   not miss having to pay for gas. The Mazda is very 
fuel efficient, but you know I drive pretty long   distances and I was putting about fifty dollars 
in the tank every two and a half days, so it got   pricey real quick. So that was the first week that 
the car was dead, then I had it towed into the   Tesla Service Center. They did give me a loaner 
and I'm really thankful for that because the car   has been there for over a week now, and it's still 
in repair.

This is the awesome car that they gave   me as a loaner. It is a Model S. It's a 2016 p90d. 
It has ludicrous plus mode! It's very fast. It is   not locked in chill mode. I can do ludicrous Plus 
in this if I really want to. The only downside   is they do have the speed governor enabled, so I 
can't go over 85 miles an hour, which is kind of   a bummer on the interstate. But uh still a great 
car. I'm really impressed with it. Okay so let me,   first of all, tell you about my car. It's a 
2019 model. I've got almost 106,000 miles on it,   so I'm out of main warranty, which is 50 000 
miles, but there is still warranty for the main   battery pack and the drive units. For a Long Range 
Model 3, that is eight years or 120,000 miles. So   I'm within that spec so I should have warranty if 
it's a battery pack issue or a Drive Unit issue.   So when I first brought it into Tesla, they did a 
remote diagnostic on the car before they even took   it apart to look at it, and what they found were 
alarms telling them that it was a bad inverter.   Well, that is actually covered under the Drive 
Unit warranty.

The inverter is inside the Drive   Unit, and anything connected there is going to 
be covered under that warranty. If you're a Tesla   owner pay attention to this next part because 
it's really important to know. When Tesla first   gets your car into the service center and they, 
you know, are telling you what it's going to cost   to repair it, they send you an estimate on your 
phone in the app, and whatever that estimate is,   you should just go ahead and approve it.

Because 
what happens is they are not even considering   warranty at that point. The car doesn't know 
if your car is in warranty or not. It's just   telling Tesla what it is and what it's going to 
cost to fix it. So Tesla sends you a bill and   in this case for my inverter, they were sending 
me a bill for two thousand six hundred dollars.   That was for everything. That's parts and labor. 
So thousands of dollars to get the car fixed,   and that's what you have to approve before they 
start working on the car. Once you talk to your   service rep, they'll let you know that if there 
is any warranty, warranty will cover those things.   They just have to show you the itemized bill 
before they start working on it.

Whatever the   cost is on that estimate that they send you is not 
always what you have to pay, because they are not   even considering warranty at that point. If there 
is warranty on any part of the car that is getting   repaired, then warranty will cover the cost but 
they still give you that estimate of the full   price of whatever that is. So you just approve it, 
they do the work and then, worst case scenario,   if it's not under warranty you have to pay that 
price. But if it's under warranty you don't have   to pay that. So after talking to my service guy, 
you know, he told me it was an inverter that I'm   going to have to get replaced and that it should 
be under warranty, and I was like great! So uh   warranty will cover the cost of the repair, the 
parts, and labor.

It also will cover your tow   truck if you had it towed to the shop. They will 
reimburse you for that if it was a warranty issue.   So I was like great! So the whole thing is going 
to be covered under warranty including my tow.   Great! Then the next day comes and what they do is 
the service tech will send you updates every day   they have the car to let you know what they find, 
and let you know the progress so you can keep an   idea on your app of what the current situation 
with your car is while it's in service. So that's   all great, but the very next day the service tech 
hit me up on chat and told me that the problem   was not with the inverter and it had nothing 
to do with the battery pack or the inverter.   So remember when I was troubleshooting it and 
I went into service mode and looked at what was   going on there? So if you remember, I put the 
car in service mode and ran a few Diagnostics   there. I saw that the PCS which is the "power 
conversion system", that's your DC to DC charging   there, was complaining about an open contactor. 
So what could be that open contactor? Sometimes   it could be, you know, part of the inverter. 
It could be a wiring harness, could be a lot   of things.

But what it actually said in my service 
mode diagnostic there was the PTC heater. So in a   properly working circuit, all the contactors are 
closed and the power can go to all the parts of   the system that it needs to, but if you have an 
open contactor, now you've broken the circuit and   things aren't going to be working right. So there 
was a device that was breaking that circuit with   the open contactor and it just happened to be the 
PTC heater. Now keep in mind this is an older car,   it doesn't have the heat pump, the octovalve, and 
all that that the new Model 3 and Model Y have,   so it does have a PTC heater.

It 
heats the cabin, it heats the battery,   it's the electric heater that heats up what needs 
to be heated in the car. So the PTC heater failed,   it broke that connection, which means the 
high-voltage battery pack is no longer able to   charge up the 12-volt. The 12-volt is running all 
the systems, the screen, the lights, the doors,   power everything! And so because the high 
voltage battery could not power up the 12-volt,   then the 12-volt was just draining.

Every time 
anything was running, it just drained. So that   was the main issue is my PTC heater failed. It 
bricked the car. Just remember what the batteries   actually support. So the high-voltage battery 
powers the car the drivetrain and all that,   but it also powers your HVAC system. The 12-volt 
battery in the front powers everything else. Your   Center screen, your lights, your tail lights, 
all the interior lights, your power door handles,   everything that's electronic within the car. 
That's your 12-volt up front. So it makes   sense that a component that the main battery pack 
controls that failed is what bricked the car.   So do I just have extremely bad luck and it was 
just coincidental that it just happened to break   at this time or did the issue of me running the 
battery down to zero and really starving all the   electronics of power trigger something that caused 
that PTC heater to fail? So the latest update on   my car is they did replace the PTC heater.

They've 
got the car up and running. They did say that the   12-volt battery got depleted during the process 
of all this, so they did replace my 12-volt   battery as a courtesy. So I didn't have to pay for 
that, so thank you very much to Tesla for that.   However, while they were working on this they also 
found something else. I was just notified that   they found a coolant leak, so they troubleshot 
that a little further. It turns out that the   coolant leak is coming from a failed o-ring 
on the front Drive Unit. So that is covered   under warranty. So right now we're waiting 
for parts. They have to order a new o-ring.  It's going to be a few days, and just 
waiting. So the good news is it's not   going to cost me the thousands of dollars I 
was first quoted. There is going to be some   warranty for the Drive Unit o-ring, but that 
PTC heater is out of warranty and I'm going to   have to pay for that.

So yeah the root cause of 
what killed the car was the failed PTC heater. Well, Look who decided to show up? So Tesla texted me that my car was fixed and ready   to be picked up. So I went last night 
to go get it and we are back home now. So it's a beautiful day! The sun is out, the 
birds are chirping, and I have my Tesla Model   3 back at the garage. So let's talk about how 
much this thing cost me for being out for two   weeks and having a lot of things done to it. 
There were several things that they did replace   under warranty, so I'll go over that.

The first 
thing they did was there was a rear harness recall   that is basically just a wiring harness that 
connects to the rear camera in the trunk. So   that was replaced under warranty under a recall. 
Another thing that they did was uh they replaced   my 12-volt battery. That was not the cause of 
what made my car have to go in the shop in the   first place. It was one of those things that you 
know after it being depleted several times over   the last two weeks of us testing and all that 
they're like yeah this thing is you know it's   a few years old let's just go ahead and replace 
it. So they actually did replace that for free   uh just as a courtesy. It wasn't under warranty or 
anything. They were just you know offered it to me   for free so gladly I accepted. Thank you very much 
to Tesla for that.

Another thing that was covered   under warranty was that O-ring on the front Drive 
Unit inverter. It was leaking coolant and so they   had to replace the O-ring and that took a couple 
days for them to order that, but once they had it,   they swapped it out and now the car was 
ready to be picked up. So next let's talk   about what uh they were quoting me to fix this 
and then what I actually had to pay. At first,   they were quoting me $2600 because they were going 
to have to replace the inverter. Then after they   actually took it apart and looked at everything 
and they tested all the different things you   know separately, they found that the inverter was 
fine and everything attached to the inverter with   the Drive Unit everything looked fine. So there 
were no issues with that. So the $2600 you know   they took that off the bill completely. However, I 
will say this the inverter and drive unit is still   covered under warranty. I've got up to 120,000 
miles to get that taken care of and that would   have been free, which didn't turn out to be that 
way.

The actual problem that caused this outage   was my PTC heater failed. Keep in mind that 
PTC heaters in the loop there of your power   conversion system where your high voltage battery 
converts to the low voltage of your 12-volt and   that PTC heater sits right in between, and if that 
fails, that disconnects the connection to the two,   and then everything starts running off that 
12-volt battery up front and draining from that   12-volt because the high voltage isn't supplying 
more current to it because it has to go through   that PTC heater. So that was what it was, and 
that is not covered under warranty. So if we   take a look at the invoice it will show you that 
the parts to replace that PTC heater was $563,   the labor was $322. So after doing a little 
bit of haggling and negotiating on the bill,   they said they would take off $108 from 
the diagnostic uh portion of that bill,   um just to help me out, so I appreciate that 
a lot.

After that taxes and everything the   total came out to $942.71, and uh that's with 
everything. Before we had agreed upon this invoice   they did send me an even higher bill for around 
$1,700 because they found two of my tires had low   tread, and they were throwing in the price of two 
new tires for that, and those were the original   factory tires that I don't even have anymore, 
and so I didn't want to pay over $700 for two   tires! I'll go ahead and replace all four tires 
for a little bit more than that and get the ones   I actually want. So when I do pick out new tires, 
I'll make sure I film that and go through all that   information with you so you can decide if you need 
to upgrade your tires as well. So that's that. The   car was down for two weeks and it only cost me 
$942, which is still more than I would like to   have paid, but hey for it being that dead and 
only costing 900 to get back to life, I'll take   it. So hopefully you like this video and you found 
something informational about it.

I hope I'm not   dissuading anyone from buying an electric vehicle. 
As you can see, my gas car is also dead. And   everyone's freaking out in the comments about "huh 
I'm never going to buy an electric vehicle because   of things like this". You guys are tripping! You 
guys grew up with gas cars and you've said none of   them have ever had a breakdown where you've not 
been able to drive your car? Cars breaking down   is a car's thing, it's not a gas versus electric. 
I've got both, I like both. I prefer my electric   car. It is more convenient for me personally. I've 
got a nice garage I can charge it in and that's   not an issue so it just worked works for me and my 
lifestyle.

It's not going to work for everyone. If   gas cars work better for you or you live out 
in the country, you don't have high-powered   charging stations everywhere, then maybe a gas 
car is better for you right now, but I'm just   letting you know, don't let a car breaking down 
dissuade you from ever going electric. My gas car   is broken too. I've got bad luck the last month. 
Hopefully, things are turning up now, and uh we'll   just have to wait and see. I just want to give a 
shout-out to all the new subscribers! Thank you   for joining the family! I appreciate and love 
you guys! If you like the video, hit that like   button. If you haven't subscribed yet, make sure 
you hit the Subscribe button so you'll be notified   when new videos come out.

I'm always doing crazy 
things to my Teslas. Always something going on,   so you want to make sure you stick around and 
see what happens next. Take care guys, bye-bye. that this is the place [Music] foreign.

As found on YouTube

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