RC Drift Gets Air Suspension Effect RMX 2.0 RTR Tamiya AMG GT3 – RC Car | RC Modify 32

Sa-Wad-Dee Khrab.
Hello everyone. My name is Mackey. And this is another episode of RC Modify. Today we have an RMX 2.0 from Max Speed Technology. This thing is an RTR (Ready to run.) It's been assembled, tuned, and drifted at their facility. It should be able to drift right out of the box. Let's just see what's inside. This one comes with an AMG GT3 body. The paint job and sticker placement are okay, not too bad. You already know how I paint the bodies.

I put the lights behind the paint and
I make sure that no light can go through it. And this is why… The body is not drilled, that's a good thing. It comes with light buckets A spoiler Spoiler brackets And side mirrors We got some tools. Some of the stickers that they didn't use. We'll work with the body later. I got a battery for the car.
( I bought it separately ) 4x AA batteries for the transmitter.
( I bought it separately ) Let's fire it up. The Gyro is working. The brake is awesome! It just stops. Let's try it out on the carpet. It did pretty well on the carpet. Let's see how it does on the asphalt race track. Poorly made by DarkDragonWing The Gyro helps a lot. It's all Gyro. It did very well overall. The Gyro plays a big role here for
the RC rear-wheel drive drifting. Without it? It's really really hard to
mimic what the Gyro does or mimic what the real car steering wheel does. Because this thing is limited to this and this.

In the real world, you get precise turning. Maybe 2-3 turns on each side. Until we have that, the gyro will be a requirement for RWD drifting. It's time for RC modified I'm gonna remove some stickers. I'm using Goo Gone to get rid of the sticky stuff. The sticky, icky, icky stuff. Yeah. I'm gonna cut the vent holes. And then, put contour wire mesh on them. We have a cat. Look Saki, look! AMG GT3 MST RMX 2.0! I'm gonna cut the grille in the front. and take off some stickers too. It Ain't Easy. I need made exhausts. Waiting for them to dry. I'm gonna cut the grilles for real now. It's got a lot of grilles. I show you this many times. I'll show you again. I'm gonna remove the sticker exhaust and put on these exhaust tips instead. I will use flashing orange LED lights for the exhaust tips.

The front light buckets are able to accept some LEDs. So, that's good. The rear light buckets though. There's no place for any LED lights to be installed. I will have to make something up. I'm gonna have to paint these a little bit too. PS-15 Metallic red PS-5 Black As usual, I'm using this LED light kit. Every time I want to drill a hole, I start off with an X-Acto Knife. This light bucket is very thin. So you might want to go slow with the drill. A little bit by a little bit. If you go too fast you will ruin it. I actually have some questions for you.

Do you have a rear-wheel drive drift car? What is it? Let me know in the comment section. I'm gonna be using these magnet body mounts. It's pretty straightforward. Just put this and cut. Tighten up the screws. There you have it. For the side mirrors, they don't include the mirrors. So I'm gonna have to cut two pieces out of this thing. Then maybe use Chrome or something
to make it look like a mirror. I found some stickers for the side mirrors. I'm going to stick them on here and then cut around them. It's a lot easier now Using the same technique: Cut around it, cut to it, break it off. I'm gonna use super glue. I just found the mirror sticker sheet. I will put this on the side mirrors. I'm gonna reinforce this sticker right here. Using the thin double-sided tape. It's time for the spoiler. Spray Rapid Tac…

Before putting on a sticker, you will not regret it. I'm going to use copper tape on these body mounts. There will be positive, negative, forward, and backward. It's pretty simple. Tape one here, and solder to positive. Tape another one here, and solder to positive on this side. And so on for the rest of them. I'm replacing the 3CH stock remote and receiver. With a 6CH remote and receiver. (FS-GT5) I need to reverse the direction of the steering. Now I have Channel 3, 4, 5, and 6 to play around with. It's time to wire them up. I'm starting to use these splitters more and more. It's 1 splitting it into 5. You can kind of see the magnets inside here. These ones are not flushed.
(Magnets only connect at the edge) These ones on the other sides are flushed.
(Magnets full connect on surface) If you have any problem with the lights or something like that. Check to see if these are making contact. Positive, negative goes to positive, negative. You only need those on one of the channels here.

And then just do the signal wires for the CH1 and CH2. ** Copper tape on top of double-sided tape. **
And then just do the signal wires for the CH1 and CH2. And then just do the signal wires for the CH1 and CH2. For the LEDs, just follow the instructions and make your modification. I'm gonna do some wiring for the
front headlights and the lights on the exhausts Okay… Wiring, wiring, wiring… I am going to wire things… Cutting off extra wires, so that it's nice and tight. Saki: cut here MEOW 🙂 We got headlights and exhaust lights done! Now we'll be moving to the tail lights. I'm gonna have to make something here to hold the LED light strip. We're gonna do some magic. It took me a while, but I got them made. (3D design/printed) Now I'm just gonna put the white LED strip, on it like that. Put double-sided tapes around it. And stuck it in on the body. Pretty strong. No turn signal or backup light because it's a race car.

Pretty sure I'm just lazy 🙂 I should add a lift system. So the rise height can be adjustable. Yeah. Now it looks like a car from Mad Max. I have 4 servos. 8 pieces of M2 x 8mm. Some 3D parts that I designed. 3 servo wires and 1 servo reverser wire. To check the right height from Factory: It's about from here to this tip. Which is about around 8mm. Check the right height at the front. Then check the right height at the back. I'm gonna redo the back parts a little bit. I just improved the rear parts. I also improved the front part too. It's pretty simple to install. If you just look at it. You should be able to figure out what is what. ( First design vs. Second design ) I'm gonna make the front and the rear
independently go up and down. This one will be the front. This one will be the rear. Which means I need more servo reversers.

It's basically Channel 5 and Channel 6. It's super low to the point where it lifts up the front magnets. So you can't go too low on the front here. There. However, for the rear. You can go as low as you want. I like it! I got the wires and everything. I'm gonna make it look nicer. Maybe cut a bunch of wires off. By doing this I got rid of a lot of wires. It's time to add some sound to it because it feels a little quiet. I'm gonna update the sound first. I'll try to find AMG's sound or anything that is close to it. I'm going with the Continental GT sound. It's done! I'm gonna Mount the speaker
on the back here using some zip ties. If I can find them 🙂 I found them. I'm gonna turn the blow-off valve sound down a little bit.

It sounds like a dolphin. Now I'm gonna add a switch to act as a clutch. So that I can rev it without the car moving forward. Actually, I'm gonna use two switches. Because this one is brushless, it's got three wires. I'm gonna put a switch for A wire
and a switch for B wire. I will be controlling the servo using Channel 3. You've seen it before in the last video. I'm gonna make it look a little bit better here. They have it. I hope you enjoy it and find this helpful. Thank you and have a nice day. Sa-Wad-Dee Khrab..

As found on YouTube

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