on this episode of pedalbox we're finishing off the structure for our front wings and we're building a lower valance for our windscreen and we're also diving back into the electronics and wiring [Music] again [Music] we started out pretty much the same way we did with the a3 loom just by thinning it out but we've gone a few steps further this time we've also rearranged the loom quite a lot we've kind of shaped it to fit the car we've routed it around through our firewall here and we've actually reshaped it all the way back to the fuse box which we've put in the set in the corner of the passenger cell up in here and this is the bracket that we made to hold the fuses and relays in place this just sits on the top of the arm here and bolts through but we'll go into this a little bit later because we still have one more piece we need to add to hold all of these plugs in but for now let's get back to making the rest of the wiring loom fit the car proper and connecting it to all of the bits like headlights and tail lights that we've got kicking around so those five plugs adrian just pointed out normally live somewhere back here where they run through from the passenger cell into the engine bay now our engine's a lot further away from those plugs than it used to be so we've had to extend quite a lot of wires with quite a lot of extra length to get all the way up to the front of the cell there we've already done it with these three which are the three biggest connectors on there with the most conductors we've now got to finish off and do these two so that we can get that all connected up [Music] we've stripped the ends of all our cables now so we've got the new donor cables that we're going to extend on and we've got the old ones all stripped pop a little bit of heat shrink down over there it sucks when you forget that and we're using these little ebay joint connectors we've got a little bit of solder in the middle and they they shrink and glue everything together what feels like a fairly nice solid waste we've been trusting these with most of the cable extensions we've done so far and they seem to be doing quite a nice job you just wash over them with a heat gun so we've just got to do this nearly two dozen more times for the various other cables that we've got and we're all good much effing and blinding later we've now extended all of the cables that run back to the engine bay and they're all ready to plug in to our nice little connector block behind our fuse panel here we've made up a little adapter bracket so this is a little connector holder that we can pop all of these into that we took out of the tt we've made up a little metal bracket that holds it in place now this lives in behind our fuse panel sort of deep in there and this back face of it here welds up onto the front panel of our brackets is going to sit in behind here and hang off of the back it's gonna have all of our connectors slotted into it clipped in and then we can plug all of these ones in on this side so we've got to whiz all of this off and then we can start welding just going to give you a quick rundown of the panel that we made up here to hold all our fuses and relays so the front face is just lots of pieces of bar stock that we cut up and welded together into the various different shapes that we needed to conform to all the little panels that we had a little piece of 30 mil box that just sits over the chassis it's got a little bolt hole in the back where it bolts through a hole that we've made in the chassis and holds that all in place and then on the front we've got various little tabs and spaces and things just to hold everything all in line and a little stud there to hold one of the relay panels if we spin it round and look at the back real quick so we've got the bulkhead and the windscreen and everything up here the little connector panel i showed you a second ago is just going to weld on there's a little finger off the back like that and that this using this little arm over here it should reach over the uh the relay panel on the bottom now what the paint dries on our new bracket edition we're going to add in another panel to the front of the car we've added a couple in where we've had to run the wires and put the grommet through to get front to back on the car but we didn't put this one in and this goes from the underside of the windscreen surround onto this crash beam that the steering column hangs off now this just fits in reasonably nicely i bent this up and panel formed this with a vise and a hammer so it's not rocket science but it does fit reasonably well we're going to get this tacked in add that on and hopefully by the time this is done the bracket should be dry and we can go back to reinstalling the wiring we may have let ourselves get a bit carried away here we were welding in the lower half of the scuttle down there and then we went to test fit the windscreen to make sure it all lined up and it hadn't warped and then we put the windscreen surround seal that goes onto the body work and then we thought we'd start mocking up a piece to go around the top so we started measuring and then we cut a rough piece and then we started bending and all of a sudden we've got the first piece of our roof so that went fairly well for a quick little side adventure now this fits in at the back here uh it goes from the top of the windscreen seal onto the front most like crossbar on our roll cage and it actually looks like a really really nice fit it's almost perfectly flat across the top of the windscreen so we need a very small bend up in the middle to make it all fit and that actually closes it all in quite nicely so we're probably going to start tacking this in and doing some final shaping and finishing on this [Music] so here's our bracket once again and we've added the new piece on sprayed it all up it's now dry which has taken probably a lot less time to dry than we spent doing stuff on the rest of the car but we can now put all of this back together and continue on with some wiring [Music] now that we've got the fuse box and everything in place it's kind of located our big rat's nest of wiring up there so we can start tidying it up just a little bit more we've got one final thing to do before the sun goes away completely we're going to use some of these audi tt cable uh cable tidying clips we're going to put them on the lower valance here wrap them around the cables and they go onto little metal screw-on posts so we're going to tack these on and that will help us keep this out of the cell well it's another morning and i was gonna say this was another fresh nightmare but actually we've done pretty well this morning just unbundling everything we need this is all lights on this side that we can shorten down this one goes off to the passenger side and does the same this is wiring for the washer jets so it's actually looking pretty good this block which controls all of our fans is the main thing that we need to splice in now and shorten up so we have this big long bundle of cable which keeps getting caught as you can tell around everything so this needs to be shortened down and we need to run some power to this and extend it because this used to live next to the battery this cable connects onto the battery but clearly it doesn't anymore so we've run an extra big line that goes back onto the battery that we'll put on at that end and we will need to run another power cable through there so this should tidy up the front of the loom really really nicely once it's in not 100 sure where we're going to mount this yet but we don't want to be extending all of these big cables so we're going to shorten this all down make this into a nice little tail that comes off from the center and then get on with the lights and a few other bits and pieces really now we've nearly finished tidying up all of our wiring loom in the front of the car there's a few extras in here compared to on the alpha headlights because the tt has a dedicated pair of lines to run the little side repeaters whereas the alpha either runs them separately or they daisy chain off of this or something but they're not on this little bundle here what we have got is five connectors in here with a there's a common ground that runs all of the bulbs and there's individual 12 volts for the high beam for the dip the side lights and the indicators so we're going to figure out which of these is which and we're going to make them all torque to our audi tt loom and hopefully once they're all connected up which we should get done today we're actually going to put some voltage into it and see if it all works we pulled a bit of a fast on you with the headlights we got them all plumbed in and tested and working but didn't actually show you how we did it so now that we're doing the tail lights i'm going to run you through the process we used it's pretty simple thankfully we've taken the connector that we have off of our alfa romeo lights and the little tail plug tail that we've got there we're just going to plug that in and basically we're going to put voltage into all of the different pins and see which bits of the tail light unit light up i've gone through the connectors already and just done a little bit of work cleaning up the ends of the wires so that we can actually test with it and i've connected an earth cable to our little test battery here the the uh this is our race battery that we're going to put in the car and i've connected an earth cable up and connected a live onto the 12 volt side so once i know which of these pins is which i well rather once i know which of them are bulbs i can then sort of put voltage into them and see what happens so the first thing i need to do just to make sure i don't blow anything up is i'm going to put the multimeter in resistance checking mode that's your little ohm symbol and i'm going to go through and check the resistance of each of these connectors into ground the idea is if any of these are quite low resistance when i plug the 12 volts in it'll pull a huge amount of current and probably pop something so i've got to be a little bit careful i'm just going to go one by one and to see what each of these comes up has so i've got a blue and white cable here and that's showing some fraction of an ohm 0.7 ohms so it's probably quite a bright a bright light whatever that one is i suspect that might be an indicator or the brake lights the next one we've got is this yellow and red cable which is about 700 ohms actually hang on that can't be right 700 ohms versus a fraction of an ohm seems a bit of a different bit of a big difference so no that really is mystery solved this blue and white cable that we just measured being quite low resistance runs through the connector block here into this yellow cable which runs into the center of the housing and that's our indicator bulb now this one by the look of it just glancing through looks like a filament bulb they need a lot more power than leds so i'd expect it to be lower resistance which means one of these three is probably dead and now that we know what all these three connectors are i can take these three connectors and the earth that we've got down over that side and splice them all onto the wiring harnesses that we've got coming out the back of our loom over on the chassis now while chris has been doing the wiring i've been making a couple of brackets so we can mount this onto the back of the car now i've just used some three mil standard steel and built a little bent plate that goes into one of the mounting holes here and this sits on and gives us the furthest back point where this will sit i also made this much more complicated slightly ugly looking standoff which we're going to weld on the outside edge back here this is going to give us the adjustment so we can align the plane of the lights themselves with the back of the car and we don't end up with something with lights which point inwards or outwards or wherever else we want so we'll mount this one on first then attach this one and shorten it to what we need finishing up the wiring in the engine means we've got to locate all of the sensors that we need to keep the engine running now hopefully we can delete this evaporation system completely and just replace this solenoid with a resistor so it doesn't confuse the ecu but we're still going to need to locate our water tank or at least a water tank and this runs through the pipe work alongside the evap system so if we're going to delete this we need to relocate our tank so you can take this off for the time being and start digging into the rest of this system the evap lines here everything comes into this either runs back to the tank and has these nice little fuel clips on or it runs down all the way across here down this pipe around the back of here that would normally go across the back of the firewall into this pipe on here and on this pipe which goes across the engine through a one-way valve into the intake manifold so my thinking is we can just connect this up onto this pipe and delete this whole thing [Music] so this is the expansion tank and that pipe we just removed would have connected into there now this on the bottom is the feed which goes down this hose here and runs all the way across the front of the block so we're going to have to replace this by some means and put the tank either on this end which is probably going to be in the way of our boost pipe or we're going to have to put it somewhere else so we've determined that our water tank is going to live on this side of the car just behind the engine we still need it to be as high as possible without interfering with the body line of the car we don't know what the body line is so we're going to try and deal with this for the time being so we've got this plate with two m10 studs that sit through the bottom and that's going to hold it and hang it under there and then the original stud that sits on that way will be braced off the bottom of there now to mount it on the car we've got another little bracket that's going to sit just off this up right here and weld onto the other two and we'll make another one that goes from the bottom down onto this lower support that's all the wiring we can get done for the time being we've got everything in that we need so now we're going to look at the front of the car again and finish off some of the framework for this front arch now originally i was going to have this as being the very top edge of the car and it was going to come back from a peak here into the corner there and when chris came back we were talking about it and he quite rightly convinced me otherwise to continue this curved corner all the way back along that means we need to make a few changes but this piece at least was always temporary and this was a bit of a best guess so this is going to change anyway because of where the windscreen now comes down to and fits so this piece is going to fit in at the very front edge almost as the eyebrow at the very front of the bonnet that will go onto the corner there and we'll be taking that shape all the way along the back to join from one side to the other we've got another piece of this 10 mil tube that i've bent around the crash bar so that it forms exactly the same curve and that's going to join on at the bottom and form the very top edge of the bonnet at the very forward edge of the car next up we're going to throw a few supports on here because this whole frame because it's only held on at the back is quite flexible we're going to throw a little vertical support in at the front on each side here to take the weight of it and then one across the middle to hopefully stop it from swinging across laterally once those are in place we're going to put a couple of little drop downs on the front of the chassis to support it and then we're finally going to remove these three pieces of the old frame here well this has been a pretty mammoth six week episode to get all of this wiring done out of the tt cut down and shaped into the car even that took two weeks on its own just to make it the right shape yeah i've spent more hours maybe even days pouring over wiring diagrams than i ever wanted to experience in my life no normal person should know what the difference is between a red wire with a white stripe and a red wire with a black stripe or a little one and so on yeah there's a lot of information i'd like to purge for my brain to make room for other stuff but i don't think we're going to be able to do that because we have more wiring yet to do to make sure that everything works and if you'd like to support us in our endeavors to try and get this running you can check out shop.pedalbox.show and buy hats hoodies long sleeve or short sleeve t-shirts and that all helps to make this build possible or if you want to support us more directly you can jump on patreon.com forward slash pedalbox show and support us from as little as a dollar a month everything's really really appreciated and so far it's bought quite a few pieces that we'll hopefully get to show you in a near future episode yep we've got a nice box of bits that are all patreon bought that we're going to be putting on the car real soon so in the meantime if you haven't already subscribed to the channel please do we're getting tantalizingly close to a thousand subscribers and that is the magic number for youtube so hopefully we can get there soon and if you do enjoy our content do like it do leave a comment let us know what you like about it and hopefully we'll be back with the fleet content soon as well because the fd1 has finally gone under the knife it's had a wing and a sill removed which is granted not a lot of what that's doing but it's started it's through the queue and everything so hopefully i'll have that back in about two months or so and you can bet i will be on that as soon as i can be also we've had a bunch of parts arrived for the t-bid that should be up next hopefully we'll get that to you in the next couple of weeks thanks very much for watching and we'll see you then [Music] you
