this time on pedal box we're getting the hydraulics done that's right we're putting brake and fluid lines in the car and now that we've got a welder back we're going to do a bunch of little fabrication jobs that i've been prepping whilst it's been away [Music] so while we've not had a welder i've been making some progress getting some pieces ready to weld in as soon as it comes back now it's back we can start welding so there's a bunch of different parts here from the front and the back of the car really just catching up on things that we haven't fit already these two panels finish off the rest of the engine bay at the very back of the car and staying at that end these little triangles go onto the rear bumper bracket and just close that in a little bit better so it doesn't get a load of shmoo and dirt and all sorts inside that bracket where it might rot out so it'll also help keep the moisture out these two pieces brace off from the sides where the rear suspension joins onto onto the back of the firewall so they've been waiting quite a while to go in and also on the back next to the bumper bar are these brackets that will allow the rear lights to attach permanently onto the car rather than being mounted to the bumper bracket and that way if we do have to take the engine out and take the bumper bracket off and we don't have to disassemble the light assembly which is a massive benefit now towards the front of the car these are going to form the driver's side of our transmission tunnel or rather our coolant tunnel because that's basically all there is that's going through there although we'll probably run the brake lines through there as well and this is the cable tray for the fuel pump that we didn't manage to fit in last time because the welder died this piece our last piece to uh in this selection i think is also going to go into the front next to the fuel panel the fuel pump bracket panel but this supports the brake lines or will support the brake lines once they're all made in hopefully we'll get onto those today once all of these pieces are in so let's start at the back of the car and these triangles as i mentioned are going to go on to these little extension brackets on the rear bumper and this half inch is going to go across the top and take these brackets which hold on to the rear lights so we can remove them this from the car without taking the lights off so let's get all of this welded up get this fitted back onto the car again and then we can fit these around accurately and make sure they fit right [Music] well it's been a bit of time yesterday getting these little panels welded in as well so they're all good apart from the top seam which we'll do when we flip the car over next and we've also got the engine stays in as well so that's all sorted in here which is really really nice next up we're going to make a few steps towards getting a clutch line in and that means getting some brackets in place to support the line as it runs through the tunnel in the middle of the car now unfortunately we haven't got enough room in here to drill and fit the nut seats that we've been using elsewhere on the car so instead we're going to drill through and we're going to put these studs in and weld them in to various parts of the tunnel cage here and those are going to fit on and then we twist on these little hose clips and then we can pop the clutch line into that now next up on the tunnel we're putting in the forward extension under here to support the skin now this piece is going to be roughly the same shape as our top section but lower now to line it up right we've done our usual trick we've taken a length of one inch box and clamped it onto what we already had and then clamped the new piece onto the box so that we know it's all plumb with itself now i'm going to tack this in place and get that together and we can start building from this piece which is nice and easy to true up we're going to start getting to the other bits which are a bit weirder with how their line now since we've been without a welder for a short while we've been trying to figure out other things that we can do that aren't fabricating new pieces of steel for the chassis now thankfully while the chassis is getting more and more complicated over time our brake system is hopefully going to stay nice and simple these two pieces here go to the front corners that's the actual front brakes driven by a little tee off of the master cylinder there and that is what connects it into the top of the master cylinder just behind so this whole thing fits inside the front end of the car in front of the bulkhead that we've got there these two extra little pieces here are two psi pressure retainers or one-way valves that just help keep some pressure in the brake system because our master cylinders are down at the bottom of the car if we didn't have these the brake fluid could run out of the brake lines and refill the reservoir and then the first time we started up again we'd have to sort of refill the system by pumping the brakes a few times which is obviously a pain in the ass the last night after we're done with the tunnel and it got quite dark we put in the cable tray and our little front support for the pedal box here to support our brake lines so we're going to start installing all of those now and then we're going to work our way back along the rest of the car [Music] now it's important to remember when you're tightening these fittings up that brass isn't really as strong as steel so um don't like nip it tight and then go yeah it feels a bit tight and then nip it up again and then a third time and strip one out because that kind of sucks and then finally once you're done give all the pipes a wiggle and make sure nothing has any play in it if you can feel them wobble freely in there at all you know something's up and finally the clutch hose this piece here goes onto our master cylinder same as all the brakes and this little round thing we have no idea what it is but it's on every single vw family car that we can find so we're just going to assume it's important and copy it plus it gives us a nice little break so that we can have our pipe bend around the paddle box there and have a straight shot all the way through the tunnel on the other piece well what we hoped was going to be a bit of a short shower yesterday turned out to be a long lasting downpour and we got absolutely soaked we started off trying to work just underneath the windscreen and get some of the work around here done and shaping up some lines in the garage and then we thought oh it'll clear up soon and we'll get them fitted and it absolutely didn't we got freezing cold and wet but we did get the center section of all of our lines in and the hydraulic handbrake now you might notice something is not quite right on the handbrake and that is this line that comes out of the back of the cylinder does not go anywhere and that's because this turns out to be a quarter inch fitting not a 3 16 fitting which means i'm going to have to get a different master cylinder to go on the back here probably going to get one of the obp ones the same as we have on the pedal box at the front retrofit that back in and it should all work really nicely but otherwise all of the lines are now plumbed and fitted nicely onto the car so the last bit we're going to install i'm actually going to show you how to make up some of these lines now on the shorter pieces that run from the t section out to the two trailing arms on the left and right of the car we've also re-plumbed the lines on there as well they've got hard lines that run down the trailing arms to the calipers and there's gonna be a little piece of flexi at each end to connect onto the calipers and onto the piece we're about to add in but they're nice and short easy to manhandle so we can show you how to flare the ends on these properly and hopefully not forget to put the nuts on which i've done i think seven times now so now i've got the trailing arm back on you can see where we need to get our pipes to and from the one that's fitted onto the trailing arm comes out to just about here and what we're going to do is have it swinging around over this way and joining onto a hard line mounted just parallel with this clutch line now the clutch line isn't completely finished off yet because we don't know exactly where the end is going to fit into until we get the engine back in but that's a nice easy one to do and it'll probably end up mounting just on the inside of this frame rail here now the other side is going to be almost identical and they'll just come off this t-piece here and we'll run the pipes along using the brackets that we've used for the clutch line now making up copper brake lines is fairly simple but it is easy to make mistakes and the biggest one that i've made repeatedly is not putting the brake nut onto the pipe before you flare it you can if you're lucky just slide it on from the other end the ones we're doing right now are actually quite straight so it wouldn't be a problem but it's still good to be in the habit of making sure the nut is on the pipe before you start flaring it in order to actually make the flare you need to use a brake flaring tool actually mounting this in here has made this significantly simpler this is a little die that fits into the end of the pipe like this it should just drop in nice and easily so that fits in and that will deform the end of the pipe so it mushrooms out like this as you push it down using the press so the press goes onto the top of here and the dimple needs to sit in the center of the die that we just put on the top of the pipe so once you've got it in you just crank this around on the end and you push it down firmly into the end of the pipe and when you take this back off you should see a nice wide end to the pipe it'll still be the same diameter in the center but it will crush down and mushroomed like this and then you put the press which has got a chamfered end on back in and you crank it back down until it's dimpled into the end of the pipe and from there you now have a double flared pipe you see the nut now stays on the end of the pipe and when you crank that down it will fit into the end of the fitting and that's what makes your seal we've got those lines that we made up last night fit onto the back of the car they're all fastened in nicely and i also did the clutch line now before we took the engine out i took a couple of measurements for where the alignment is that we need for this fitting to go into the cylinder that sits on the gearbox and the minimum space that we have for this radius and this should fit really nicely so that's all sorted as well and it's not going to get in the way of anything else like the boost pipe coming through here or the battery tray so we're all good there but if you are keeping score at home for how many times i forgot to put a fitting on the end of the pipe before i flared it good news i'm up to nine because i forgot on each one of these pipes when i was doing the second end so go me now the last thing we're going to add on today to our hydraulic system are the reservoirs this is the clutch one which we're going to mount on top of the master cylinder exactly as per the design from the obp pedal box these two however have to move because of the extension we made for the throttle pedal they no longer fit really comfortably on top of the master cylinders so we've butchered this bracket that we got off the tt can't remember what it was there for but it had all the holes in roughly the right places and it meant that we could very easily make up a little bracket that held the reservoirs on the side now these are connected in with these two lines which obp sell is remote reservoir so you can lift them up out the bottom of the car and they're a lot easier to see all in all great success we've got brake lines all the way back to the corners of the car here ready to hook up onto the flexis for the trailing arms on both sides and we've also got the clutch line ready to go into the uh into the transmission there so we're all in pretty good shape there the only thing that we've still got to sort out is we've obviously got to replace the cylinder on the back of our handbrake because it has like a 7 16 fitting or something which is kind of a pain that we can't hook on to but we'll get that swapped out yeah not sure how i missed that when i was ordering it but never mind it's a nice easy one to fix and it's also really good to have got lots of little jobs sorted on the back of the car or at least a lot closer so we can start remounting our rear lights again to make sure that they just stay on the car instead of coming off with the bumper now hopefully we're going to get the engine back in but not that soon we're going to flip the whole car over and finish up a bunch of the underside put some brackets in and finish up a lot of the welds whilst it's all stripped down so we don't have to do a complete rebuild unbuild rebuild again so it's gonna be a little bit longer before we can get the ecu on this and get it fired up but do stick with us now if you like what we're doing here and want to support us you can jump on shop.pedalbox.show to buy some of our snazzy mitch including the hats i'm not wearing the hoodies i'm not wearing and the mug that aid has got with it but i do have a hat on and if you'd like to support us more directly you can go to patreon.com pedalbox show and support us there and we really do appreciate all of our patrons contributions thus far if you haven't already do subscribe to the channel and hopefully we'll see you not too far away [Music] man you
